01Camogli · A harbour that invites you to linger
Photo: Airb97 / Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 4.0
Camogli is easy to reach by train, but as soon as you leave the station you will feel as though you have arrived in another world. Tall, colourful houses form a backdrop to the little harbour, where it is worth heading down without a fixed plan: watch the boats, walk along the seafront and stop whenever a corner appeals to you.
If you would like to add some sea time to your day, boats leave the harbour for Punta Chiappa and San Fruttuoso. Check timetables and conditions before deciding: you can simply visit the town or turn the day into an excursion on the headland.
San Fruttuoso · The abbey hidden in the bay
Reaching San Fruttuoso by sea is already part of the outing. The headland’s coastline accompanies the boat, then a little inlet opens up and the abbey appears, tucked between houses, woodland and beach. No roads lead here: you arrive by boat or on foot along the Park’s trails.
We recommend taking the time to visit San Fruttuoso Abbey, rather than just swimming and leaving. It preserves more than a thousand years of history and tells the story of a place that lived for a long time apart from the rest of the coast. For opening times and tickets, consult the FAI website.
Zoagli · The rocky coast and a swimsuit in your bag
Zoagli is one of those small destinations that do not need a whole day. Arrive by train, cross the town and head down towards the walkway built along the rocky coast. From there the sea feels close in a different way from Santa: there are rocks, little openings along the coast and the sound of waves beneath your feet.
Take your time, especially if you like combining a walk with a swim. In the warmer months, a swimsuit in your bag can turn an unplanned outing into a perfect afternoon.
Chiavari · A day under the arcades
Photo: Dapa19 / Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 4.0
When the weather is uncertain, we would think of Chiavari. Its centre is a succession of arcades: you can walk a long way under cover, enter a little shop, browse the windows and keep going even if it starts to rain. We especially like the old-fashioned food shops, the ones that make you want to stop even without a shopping list.
If you would like to add a visit to your walk, the National Archaeological Museum tells the story of local discoveries and the Iron Age burial ground of the Liguri Tigullii. It is an unexpected way to discover how much history lies behind the arcades.
Genoa · Let the narrow lanes lead the way
Genoa deserves at least a day, and our advice is not to turn it into a race between monuments. Start in the old town: the caruggi change light and atmosphere around every corner, with unexpected little squares, churches and façades you only see by looking up. Then head to Via Garibaldi, where the mansions of the Palazzi dei Rolli tell the story of another Genoa, wealthy and grand.
If you love museums, choose a visit to the Musei di Strada Nuova; if you prefer to stay outdoors, head down towards the Porto Antico. The Aquarium is an internationally renowned attraction and worth a visit even without children. For us, the pleasure of Genoa lies precisely in this constant movement between narrow lanes, grand palaces and the sea.
The Cinque Terre · Two ways to experience them
Photo: Luca Casartelli / Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 2.0
For the Cinque Terre, you can choose between two very different days. By train, you decide where to get off, how long to stay and whether to visit one or more of the five villages. This is the option we suggest for anyone wanting to explore freely, perhaps starting in Monterosso and continuing without too rigid a plan.
The boat, when it is running and sea conditions allow, means following its timetable, but offers a view you will not get from the train: the villages appearing one after another along the coast. Set aside a full day for this outing. Check services and availability before setting off; if you plan to take several trains in the area, consider the Cinque Terre Card too.
Nozarego · The view just above Santa
Nozarego is so close that it can be easy to think of it merely as a place to pass through. Instead, it is worth stopping: just a few minutes uphill are enough for houses to give way to greenery and Santa Margherita to spread out below you, with the harbour and sea in the background.
You can get there by car too, but from Il Cuore di Santa we like to think of it as the first step in a day on the headland. From here, whenever you feel like it, you can continue along the trails; or simply return with another image of the town in your mind.
